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Comprehensive Guide to Maintenance and Use 

Introduction 

Welcome to the Use and Care Manual for Rainforest Fiberglass Pools. This manual aims to provide you with all the necessary information to ensure your pool remains in optimal condition, offering years of enjoyment and relaxation. The most important way to care for your pool or spa is to ensure the quality of the water. Failure to maintain proper water quality can not only be hazardous to your health but can result in damage to your pool/spa voiding the warranty. 

Water Chemistry 

Maintaining Balanced Water 

Proper water chemistry is crucial for the longevity of your pool and the comfort of its users. Regularly test and adjust the following parameters: 

• Free Chlorine: (FC) Free chlorine is commonly referred to as the “good chlorine” or “working chlorine”. FC is the active disinfectant in the water. FC has the ability to effectively kill bacteria, algae and other organisms and to oxidize human waste very quickly. Test this weekly! Keeping your FCL between 1.0-3.0 ppm will ensure a healthy balance of chlorine to prevent any harmful organisms from growing.. Maintain 1-3 ppm 

• pH Level: This is a scale which is the measure of the degree of acidity or alkalinity of a solution. A pH below 7.0 is considered an acid while a pH above 7.0 would be considered a base or alkaline. In swimming pools, a certain pH range is required to ensure proper efficiency of other chemicals, as well as the comfort of those using the pool. The more hydrogen, the more acidic the substance is, and thus the lower the pH. It is often believed that as the pH increases the amount of acid in the water increases, when in fact the opposite is true. Maintain a pH between 7.2 and 7.4.  Improper pH levels are the leading cause of premature failure of heater parts. 

• Total Alkalinity: Total alkalinity is a measure of the alkaline materials dissolved in the water, which keep the pH at the proper level.  The water’s ability to resist pH change depends on the amount of alkaline material in the water.  If the TA is low, pH will bounce in and out of range.  If TA is high, it becomes difficult to adjust the pH. To increase alkalinity, add sodium bicarbonate or soda ash.  To lower alkalinity, use sodium bisulfate which is much safer than muriatic acid.  Testing TA is recommended about once per week. Keep levels between 80 and 120 ppm. 

• Calcium Hardness: Calcium hardness refers to the amount of dissolved minerals in the water.  If the calcium is too high, it can produce scale or a white chalky residue on the pool surface. “Jack’s Magic” is an effective product to safely remove scale.  Testing CH is recommended about once per month.  Ideal levels are less than 120 

• TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS (TDS): Total dissolved solids are a measurement of the total amount of minerals, residue and other particles that remain in the water.  These levels of dissolved solids increase in the pool as water evaporates over time.  High TDS levels can cause cloudy water, corrosion, scale and even algae.  No chemicals are available to lower TDS.  The most effective method to lower TDS is to (partially) drain and refill.  Testing TDS is recommended about once per month. 

• Cyanuric Acid (CYA) Stabilizer: Sunlight causes the amount of chlorine in your pool water to decrease.  Stabilizers or cyanuric acid, protect the chlorine from the sun’s rays increasing them life of the chlorine.  Adding cyanuric acid will increase the level.  Keep in mind that acids lower pH.  Testing CYA is recommended about once per month. Ideal levels are between 30 and 50 ppm. 

• Salt: If you who have chosen to purchase a SWG (Saltwater Chlorine Generator) you will be adding salt to your pool, NOT CHLORINE! While your electronic unit will display the concentration of salt in parts per million it is a good idea to test this manually every two weeks. When adding salt to your pool, do it gradually! If you add too much, the only way to remediate is to drain some water and refill!! Ideal levels are between 2,700-3,400 ppm. 

• Superchlorinate/Shock: Super chlorination refers to a process by which the chlorine level in the swimming pool is raised to abnormally high levels (about 10 times the usual level) over a very short period of time, usually a few hours.)  Since this requires rapid addition of chlorine, slow-dissolving tablets are not suitable for super chlorination. Instead, special granular or liquid chlorines are used which are packaged in appropriate sizes.  These products do not remain in the pool water for an extended period, allowing the pool to be used as soon as possible. Another common name for super chlorination is “shocking”. It is recommended to super chlorinate (shock) a swimming pool every two weeks in the summer, when the pool is used more often, and the possibility of the presence of organic wastes is greater. During the off season, once per month or less is sufficient.  It is also recommended that super chlorination take place in the evening, after the sun has set, since this is when the pool is not being used and the treatment will not be removed by UV rays from the sun before it has the opportunity to perform its function.  

 Testing Frequency 

Test your pool water at least once a week. During periods of heavy use or high temperatures, more frequent testing may be necessary. 

• Weekly: Using a test strip or Taylor test kit, capture your results with a photo 

• Monthly: Have water tested at a pool store and maintain log of the results. 

Water Issues: 

ALGAE 

Without proper chemical care, algae spores which enter the pool water from the air will multiply and become visible colonies. These colonies can take several forms and are identified by their colors. Of the many species of algae, only four are common in household swimming pools: green, yellow, pink and black. 

METHODS OF ALGAE PREVENTION 

The proper maintenance of pool chemicals is the best way to ensure the prevention of most types of algae. Some green algae and virtually all yellow algae are immune to chlorine, so in these cases it is almost impossible to guarantee the prevention of all algae. However, there are algaecides available to the consumer which uses both chlorine and copper to collectively destroy these chlorine-immune algae. Black algae can most easily be prevented by ensuring that the pool surface is circulated properly and by maintaining a proper water hardness level. 

METHODS OF ALGAE DESTRUCTION 

Once algae become visible to the naked eye, it will require a great deal more time and expense to kill it than it would to have prevented it from forming. For this reason, the prevention of algae is stressed. As already mentioned, proper maintenance of pool chemicals is the best way to ensure the prevention of most types of algae.  With the exception of black algae, the destruction of algae means the total eradication of the colony from the swimming pool, and the pool is to be maintained as usual from that point on. With black algae, the visible portion needs to be removed using a liquid chlorine bath, requiring the pool to be drained and scrubbed with liquid chlorine. 

KNOWING YOUR POOL SYSTEM 

WATER CIRCULATION 

Properly adding chemicals to the pool water is just one step in the prevention of algae growth. Of equal importance is proper water circulation. Even if the chemical levels are well within ideal ranges where you take the test sample from, if the water is not circulated the chemicals may not be evenly distributed throughout the pool.  In turn, some areas of the pool may have chemical levels far below ideal. Understanding how the water circulates throughout the pool and what can be done to maximize the efficiency of the water’s movement, is crucial in the prevention of algae growth and maintaining proper chemical levels. This section explains the swimming pool circulation system and its operation. 

SUCTION 

There are two different “sides” of the pool’s circulation system: the suction and the pressure sides. The suction side refers to the water that is approaching the pump from the pool, whereas the pressure side refers to the water which is returning to the pool after it has passed through the pump and filter. The suction side of the system has two main components: the skimmer and the main drains. Water flows from the pool through each of these openings to the pump, and from there, proceeds through the filter, heater and chlorinator/chemical feeder returning to the pool. There is a rectangular opening in the pool side wall which leads into the skimmer, and which contains the skimmer weir, a plastic door, hinged at the bottom, which prevents debris from re-entering the pool once the pump is turned off. Access to the skimmer is provided by a plastic cover on the pool deck directly above the rectangular opening described above. Once the cover is removed, the skimmer basket is visible. The skimmer basket traps large debris such as bugs and leaves before it enters the pipes leading to the pump. Large debris such as this could become trapped in the pipes, causing restriction of water flow and possible starvation of the pump. Since the complete blockage of this basket could also lead to water flow restriction and improper circulation, the skimmer basket must be inspected and cleaned at least once per week, more often is pool is unprotected by screen enclosure.  Be sure to make inspections immediately following a windstorm. The drain(s) are located either on the floor or wall. These suction apparatus will trap most of the smaller debris that has collected on the floor of the pool or near the bottom such as sand, smaller leaves and pine needles. These fittings usually cannot handle larger debris, so it is suggested that large debris on or near the bottom be collected manually with a leaf net.  

PRESSURE 

The pressure side of the system refers to water which has already passed through the pump and is returning to the pool. The pressure side of the system includes the filter, heater, chlorinator, any water features and the main returns and/or the in-floor cleaning system. 

CARTRIDGE FILTERS 

Many builders use cartridge filters because there is less maintenance than DE or sand filters which require constant backwashing. These types of filters also waste a considerable amount of water throughout the course of the swim season.  Cartridge filters use polyester elements which are filled with very small pores. These pores allow water to pass through but trap dirt and debris, as well as microscopic particles. As the pores become clogged, the water has no place to go, so the pressure in the filter tank begins to rise, which shows up on the pressure gauge at the top of the filter. If a rise of more than 10 psi occurs in the pressure, this usually means that the filter needs to be cleaned. With cartridge filters, this is done by disassembling the filter tank (usually a clamp is present around the tank which holds it together) and removing the cartridge element and then spraying it with very high-pressure water and/or soaking the element in a mixture of a filter cleaner and water (*Do not use bleach). Once the element is clean, it can be placed back into the tank and the clamp refastened. Then the pump can be restarted, making sure that the pressure rises from zero to the normal operating pressure soon after restart. As the pressure rises, open the manual air relief valve, located on the very top of the filter, to release the air which was introduced into the tank during the cleaning process. The cartridge element should be cleaned when the pressure on the gauge reaches a value 10 psi higher than the normal operating pressure.  

PUMP 

*REGAINING PRIME * If the pressure does not rise within 1 minute, shut the pump off and add water into the system through the pump basket. The water from a five-gallon bucket should be enough to flood the pump and restart the system. Be sure to open the manual air relief valve (located on the top of the filter) to release the excess air from inside the filter.  Once fully primed, close the relief valve. Please refer to the owner’s manual for further information. The pump basket or lint strainer should be check weekly and emptied of debris. 

RETURNS 

The main water returns are generally located about 1 foot beneath the water surface and resemble eyes in appearance. The outer ring of the return can be loosened by turning counterclockwise in order to aim the orifice in a certain direction. The returns should be aimed so that a circulation pattern exists on the surface of the pool. This usually means that all the returns should be aimed either to the left or to the right, depending on the style of the particular pool. Usually, all the returns should be aimed so that they are level with the water surface, as opposed to up or down. Most pools have two or three returns on the side walls of the pool. 

HEATER OR HEAT PUMP  

Heaters and Heat pumps are optional pieces of equipment that can extend your swimming season. Do not attempt to service this piece of equipment as this will not only void the warranty but could cause serious injury or death and damage to the pool system. Please refer to owner’s manuals for further information. 

CHEMICAL FEEDER OR SALT-CHLORINE GENERATORS 

There are two types of chemical feeder systems. The first is the basic chlorine chemical feeder which dilutes chlorine tablets by erosion and feeds them into the pool water on the return side. The second is a sophisticated salt generated chlorine system which uses salt added directly to your pool water to generate chlorine using a small electrical charge. Both should be used with caution and not serviced by anyone other than a qualified service professional. Please refer to owner’s manuals for further information. 

Cleaning and Maintenance 

Skimming and Vacuuming 

Regularly skim the surface of your pool to remove leaves, insects, and other debris. Use a pool vacuum to clean the pool floor and walls, ensuring all areas are free of dirt and algae. 

Filter Maintenance 

Clean your pool’s filter according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. This usually involves backwashing sand or DE filters, or cleaning cartridge filters. Regular filter maintenance helps keep your water clear and extends the life of your filtration system. 

Brushing the Pool 

Even though your swimming pool is filtered on a regular basis, there is no substitute for a thorough brushing of the walls and bottom of the pool once at the start of the season. It is recommended that the pool be brushed with a standard 18-inch nylon bristle pool brush. The entire process usually only takes 20 minutes and is well worth the time and effort. Be sure to brush the pool while the pump is operating, and to cover the entire pool from the water line to the main drain. Sweep slowly and push the brush toward the main drain so that the debris will be pulled into the drain and then into the filter, where it will be removed from the water. If large amounts of debris were removed during this process, it is advisable to clean the filter afterward.  Brush the walls and floor of your pool at least once a week to prevent algae buildup. Use a brush suitable for fiberglass surfaces to avoid scratching the pool. 

VACUUMING THE POOL 

If the amount of debris in the pool is enough to be felt with your feet while swimming or is visible from the surface you may want to consider vacuuming to remove the debris before it becomes attached to the pool surface and requires special methods to remove. A manual vacuum system consists of three major components: a vacuum head, a flexible vacuum hose, and a long telescopic pole. The pole which is used for brushing can also be used for vacuuming as both the brush and the vacuum head are connected to the pole with a quick disconnect attachment. The process of vacuuming the pool manually can be accomplished by following these steps.  

1. Remove all large debris from the pool with your leaf net because vacuuming large debris could cause a blockage in the pipes.  

1. Attach the vacuum head to the telescopic pole and the vacuum hose to the top of the vacuum head.  

1. While keeping the opposite end of the hose and the pole accessible lower the vacuum head into the pool.  

1. Before the vacuum hose can be attached to the suction line in the skimmer, it must be filled with water to prevent a large amount of air entering the pump and causing a loss of prime. This can be accomplished by either placing the free end of the vacuum hose over one of the main return lines allowing water to flow into the hose and push out the air or by inserting a garden hose into the vacuum hose and using the water from the garden hose to push air out of the vacuum hose.  

1. As the hose is filling with water the vacuum head should be lifted from the bottom of the pool about 1 foot to assist in the escape of the trapped air.  

1. Once the bubbles have stopped flowing from the vacuum head, bring the free end of the vacuum hose to the skimmer always keeping the end of the hose beneath the water so that no more air is allowed to enter the hose.  

1. Remove the lid from the skimmer and also remove the skimmer basket. Cover the free end of the vacuum hose with the palm of your hand and quickly lift the hose over the pool deck and into the skimmer through the opening at the top.  

1. Once the end of the hose is underwater remove your hand and insert the hose into the suction hole in the bottom of the skimmer. The suction will hold the hose into the hole and will form a good seal.  

1. Once the connection has been made, slowly move the vacuum over the pool surface in a similar fashion as brushing, except with vacuuming, it is not necessary to push the vacuum toward the main drain. It is necessary to always keep the vacuum head underwater to prevent air from entering the system.  

1.  When the pool has been sufficiently cleaned, pull the vacuum hose out of the suction hole in the skimmer, drain and rinse the hose and head with fresh water to remove chemicals which could decrease the life of the equipment.   

For best results store the equipment indoors or in a shaded area. Once again, if an excessive amount of debris has been collected, it is recommended that the filter be cleaned immediately.  Removing excessive debris will increase the efficiency of the filter system.  Also, be sure to clean the basket located in the pump housing and to replace the skimmer basket and skimmer cover. 

SKIMMING THE POOL 

While vacuuming and brushing remove dirt and debris from the bottom of the pool, they do not remove the debris such as grass, leaves, and bugs which float on the water surface. This debris usually is removed by the skimmer but it can accumulate in large amounts and it may take the built-in skimmer an appreciable time to remove it. By using a hand skimmer, the debris can be quickly removed before it can become saturated with water and sink to the bottom. While there are no specific guidelines as to when the pool should be manually skimmed, it is recommended that it be done either before or after brushing. A manual skimmer can be used in conjunction with the same telescopic pole used for brushing and vacuuming.  

EQUIPMENT MANUALS 

Keep on hand for easy reference.  You should read them carefully to fully understand how the equipment operates and proper maintenance procedures for each.  Keep in a familiar place as you will review. 

HOW LONG TO RUN THE PUMP 

The main factors in determining the correct amount of time to run your pool equipment each day are (1) filtration and (2) chemical demand. Every pool is unique and different; each customer will have to determine their own equipment operation times. Pools should be completely filtered at least once every day, which means that the total gallons of water in your pool must pass through the pool’s filter at least once per day. Pump size, number of gallons and filter size are all part of determining the amount of time required to filter your pool at least once a day. A good starting point is 6 hours per day.  Run your equipment for a week or two and see if the pool water stays clear.  If you find that the water is not staying clear you should increase the run time of your equipment and check the chemical levels.  Obviously, larger pools with more water will require longer operation times than a small pool. In addition, it is very common to run your pool longer during the warmer months of the year.  Chemical demand is at its peak at this time; the pool is getting more use and the amount of contaminants in the pool is also higher. 

DEVELOPING A ROUTINE 

All of the maintenance procedures described can be done with relative ease and a little bit of your time.  By developing a routine schedule, you will find that your fiberglass pool will remain sparkling clear with very little effort.  Allowing things to get out of hand will only demand extra work, time and money.  The following is a simple guide to routine maintenance practices.  Individual results will vary based on use and environmental conditions. 

• WEEKLY: Test alkalinity, pH and chlorine; adjust as necessary. Empty skimmer and pump baskets 

• BI-WEEKLY: Shock pool, check calcium hardness adjust as necessary. 

• MONTHLY: Clean and check filter. If necessary, brush pool walls and water line. Skim water surface of excess leaves and debris. Have pool water professionally tested, 

Seasonal Care (If applicable) 

Winterizing Your Pool 

If you live in an area with cold winters, it’s essential to winterize your pool to prevent damage from freezing temperatures. Follow these steps: 

1. Lower the water level to below the skimmer.
2. Drain all pool equipment, including pumps, filters, and heaters.
3. Add winterizing chemicals to protect the water during the off-season.
4. Cover the pool with a durable pool cover to keep out debris.

Opening Your Pool for the Season 

When the weather warms up, follow these steps to prepare your pool for use: 

1. Remove the pool cover and clean any debris.
2. Refill the pool to the appropriate water level.
3. Reconnect and inspect all pool equipment.
4. Test and balance the water chemistry before use.

Troubleshooting 

Common Issues and Solutions 

 Safety Tips 

General Pool Safety 

• Always supervise children and non-swimmers when they are in or around the pool. Proper supervision is critical to safe use of your pool. Adults should always assist children to enter and exit the pool 

• Keep a first aid kit and rescue equipment nearby. 

• Install pool barriers, such as fences and gates, to prevent unauthorized access. Secure all doors and gates with self-closing latches and/or alarms. Alarm windows that access pool area. 

• Whether the pool is in use or not, the pool owner is responsible for always safeguarding the pool.  

• Do not allow diving or jumping into pool.  It is recommended that “No Diving” signs be placed at all areas of the pool. Never dive or jump into the shallow end of the pool. Never dive or jump into the pool from the side of the pool, sunbathing platform, steps or pool ladder. Do not allow any diving or headfirst entry into any pool.  

• Any accessories must be installed and used in strict compliance with the equipment manufacturer’s specifications and ANSI/NSPI, ANSI/APSP, and ANSI/APSP/ ICC standards, as well as in compliance with all applicable laws, rules and regulations.  

• Never swim alone or allow others to swim alone. Adults should always assist children to enter and exit the pool 

• Be sure to check all accessories and attachments to ensure installation is secure.  

• Pool water should be clean and clear with floor clearly visible from outside the pool. 

• You must see the bottom of the pool clearly to avoid drowning, serious injury, or death.  Pool water and pool floor should always be clean to avoid slips during pool use. Slipping on the pool floor can lead to serious injury or death.  

• Regularly monitor pool drainage system to ensure that it is functioning properly. If you have concerns about the functionality of the drainage system, contact your installer. KEEP POOL TOYS AWAY FROM THE POOL WHEN THEY ARE NOT IN USE. SWIM SAFELY.  

• Never engage in horseplay or other rough housing while in or around the pool.  

• Do not run near or around the pool. 

• Never use electronics in or near the pool.  

• Keep all glass products, such as cups, bottles, and containers, away from the pool always. SWIMMING LESSONS ARE HIGHLY ENCOURAGED PRIOR TO POOL USE. CPR LESSONS ARE HIGHLY ENCOURAGED PRIOR TO POOL USE. BE PREPARED WITH LIFESAVING EQUIPMENT.  

• Keep lifesaving equipment, such as a pole, throw rope, and Coast Guard approved ring or float near the pool with clear signage to indicate where such equipment may be located.  

• A telephone with emergency numbers clearly posted should also be near the pool. NEVER USE THE POOL WHEN USING ALCOHOL OR DRUGS. POOL OWNERS MAY NEED TO COMPLY WITH FEDERAL, STATE, OR LOCAL LAWS, ORDINANCES, AND/OR BUILDING CODES RELATED TO POOL SAFETY REQUIREMENTS.  

• You should contact your local government, neighborhood association, and/or building code enforcement office for further details. 3 

Chemical Safety 

The chemicals used in a swimming pool pose a definite hazard to occupants and equipment. A few simple guidelines should be followed to ensure the safety of everyone. In this context, a “chemical” includes, but is not limited to, chlorine, acid, soda ash, any algaecide, diatomaceous earth, silica sand, and any cleaning agent.  

• Store pool chemicals in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight. 

• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when handling and adding chemicals to the pool. 

• Never mix different pool chemicals, as this can cause dangerous reactions. 

• Never mix any two chemicals together, either away from or in the pool water. 

• Never add water to a chemical. Always add the chemical to water. 

• Never handle a chemical without the use of protective gloves and a form of nose-mouth protection. This can be a disposable fabric mask or a respirator. 

• Never add two different chemicals to the pool water at the same time. Always allow at least 4 hours between applications unless otherwise directed by the chemical manufacturer. 

• Never allow anyone to use the pool within 4 hours after the addition of chemicals. 

• Never store any chemicals inside the house, in direct sunlight, or near the pool area. 

• Keep all pool chemicals out of the reach of children. 

• Never store two different chemicals adjacent to one another. Leakage of one could cause them to mix and a chemical reaction could result. 

• Avoid contact of any chemical with the skin or mucous membranes, such as those in the mouth, eyes, and nose. If this occurs, flush the area with water and consult a physician immediately. Be sure to have the container of the chemical nearby to inform the physician of the agent involved. 

• Be aware of the addition of any pool chemicals by another person, to avoid interaction or overdose 

Conclusion 

Proper use and care of your Rainforest Fiberglass Pool will ensure it remains a source of enjoyment for years to come. By following the guidelines in this manual, you can maintain clear, safe water and a beautiful pool environment. If you have any questions or need further assistance, please contact our customer support team. 

Thank you for choosing Rainforest Fiberglass Pools. Enjoy your pool!